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煮茶聊詩
討論板名:煮茶聊詩 http://chiushui.org


文章標題:詩路之旅 ——第二屆青海湖國際詩歌節紀行        琹川的IP位置:110.24.72.71
 
從太平洋邊美麗的小島飛向世界的屋脊,像隻青鳥般,越過了大海與高山,在離太陽最近的地方,每一片詩的白羽,無由地被照得閃閃發亮。

  飛降西寧時,自空中往下眺望,映入眼簾的是一片荒漠似的起伏沙山,逐漸地起伏的山開始點上了翠綠,而蜿蜒山間的道路,猶如一條條淺褐色的麻繩,裝置藝術般隨意地彎曲置放其上;有時因光影的不同,群山就像是大地上綿延不絕的巨大屏風,上面刻著美麗的樹枝圖形,隨著飛行的角度及陽光變化,眼前不斷變換的景致,氣象萬千。就在降落前一刻,一座座山巒,螺旋般紋路自山頂環繞而下,一座不稀奇,但若成千上百的山皆如此,那圖案般的景象之美,可就令人目不暇給了,它讓我想起了梵谷的畫。

  經歷了一天的飛行、轉機,八月六日傍晚,終於抵達了青海省首都西寧。報到、晚餐之後,在張默及管管房間見到了沈奇及馬非,沈奇所贈《詩與詩話》一書中言「詩是一種慢/一種簡 一種/沉著中的優雅」令人印象深刻。

八月七日,在青海賓館旁的會議中心舉行開幕儀式,本屆國際詩歌節計有四十幾個國家近200位詩人參加;接著是針對「現實與物質的超越——詩歌與人類精神世界的重構」為主題的論壇發言,真是百家爭鳴。有二十多位來自世界各地的詩人自由抒發個人對詩精闢的體會與見解,如西班牙的胡安‧卡洛斯 梅斯特雷(Juan Carlos Mestre)認為「詩如覺悟」——詩歌或許是某種覺醒,這種覺醒是以其他方式都無法獲得的。法國詩人雅克‧達拉斯(Jacques Darras)則認為自己是個現實主義者,他覺得現實本身神秘無比,且無法避開,所有詩歌都會增進我們對現實的認識。希臘詩人安那斯塔西斯‧維斯托尼蒂斯(Anastassis Vistonitis)說:詩人注定會被回歸到「理性」這個詞上,但這種理性從詩的角度來說是一種預言。來自以色列的女詩人阿吉‧米斯赫爾(AgiMishol)一直徘徊在戰爭與詩歌之間,體驗到現實的艱難都會滲透在詩歌中,即使不是直接的,也是間接的,而詩歌的作用是喚起我們對同情和良知的渴望。日本詩人野村喜和夫則說除了事物本身,詩歌沒有任何的目的,它靠自身散發光芒,但與此同時,這光芒使我們能夠感覺到潛伏在幕後的東西——巨大的黑暗和寂靜。上海詩人楊匡漢則提出,靈魂窺見墓地後面的光輝,在充滿艱辛和憂傷的大地川島上,獲得人生與藝術所揭示出來的真諦,是一種磨難,也是詩人生命的慶典。而來自台灣的詩人白靈,以科技為根據,詮釋詩的精神是在看得見與看不見之間的互動,更是令人耳目一新。凡此等等,真是一場擴展視野、相互交流的詩觀饗宴。

八月八日上午一早,全體驅車前往嚮往已久的青海湖。車子出了西寧,便往湟源方向奔馳,車上導遊小桃一路為我們介紹青海省的風土民情,她說窗外望去所見的山峰都是祁連山系,對我來說祁連山是地理課本上的有名山脈,是一首歌裡的美麗景象——雪皓皓,山蒼蒼,祁連山下好牧場。如今就真實地出現在眼前,怎不令人興奮呢!車行了兩個多鐘頭,終於來到了青海湖,我眼前一亮,只見碧藍的湖面與湖畔鮮黃的油菜花、翠綠的青稞田相映成趣,明麗極了。十點在青海湖畔舉行「青海湖詩歌牆」的揭幕儀式,並由青海副省長也是著名詩人吉狄馬加頒發首屆「金藏羚羊國際詩歌獎」,由阿根廷詩人胡安‧赫爾曼(Juan Gelman 1930——)獲得,其得獎理由乃以樸實、精煉的語言,豐富、深邃的意象,體現並捍衛了詩歌與人的尊嚴。之後有《青海湖暢想曲》交響音樂會的演出,當耳畔響起優美的樂音,眼睛越過因背光如剪影般的樂團,落在悠碧湛藍的湖面,那美的撞擊與悸動,令人神馳。音樂會後詩人們紛紛在詩歌牆上留下了自己的名字。

用過午餐,漫步在青海湖畔,只見碧澈的湖面連接著蔚藍的天空,水天接際處高低蹲著一列雪亮的雲朵。我踩在鬆軟的沙灘上,望著一波波湖水自遠處湧來,輕輕拍向沙岸,那水明透極了,我深深吸了一口氣,感覺連空氣也是淡藍色的。迎面遇到了來自俄羅斯的艾列娜及她的中國先生,我們互相為對方在寫著「雪域聖湖」的石碑前拍照。我繼續沿湖步行,湖邊有藏人及他披飾美麗的牦牛,也有藏族服飾出租,我拍下了水邊那隻披著錦鞍彩飾的牦牛,只覺牠的眼神非常的柔和明美,似湖水一般。我一直走到長堤,才往上繞回停車處。

下午回程,前往湟源縣丹葛爾古城明清一條街采風,並參加昌耀詩歌館揭幕儀式。湟源史稱丹葛爾,為絲綢之路要塞,而丹葛爾古城是茶馬商都,明清時期西北地區最大的貿易集散地,也是一座文化古城。城內經緯交織的幽靜街巷,結構獨特的民居院落,風格迥異的湟源排燈,以及丹葛爾皮綉、陳醋、藏地靴製作等,加上頗具特色的地方曲藝、民俗文化活動,皆為古城增添了豐厚的文化內涵。昌耀詩歌館即在古城裡,館前院子中有一尊昌耀戴眼鏡、圍巾的半身白色塑像,詩歌館內則陳列昌耀生平的詩文原稿及隨身用品等等。我讀著牆上他的《雪‧土伯特女人和他的男人及三個孩子》,試著從詩行中認識這位備受尊重的詩人。昌耀曾於1957年被打成右派流放荒原二十二年,而他最初的「邊關流寓」之地即是青海省湟源縣日月藏族鄉,他在這裡成了一藏族之家的義子和贅婿,故而他以來自青藏高原的土著民族元素和大地氣質,悲憫的情懷及博大堅定的道德擔當,構成他詩歌的獨特性和精神氣象,也因此被當代詩壇稱為「詩人中的詩人」,受到崇高的敬重。他在《愛與死》一詩中如此寫著:「在善惡的角力中/愛的繁衍與生殖/比死亡的戕殘更古老/更勇武百倍」。在昌耀塑像前與張同吾老師合影,感覺特別有意義,張老師有一種中國文人儒雅的氣度,其在《五里橋遐思》一詩中如此寫著:「夏日向晚 細雨迷濛/我和詩歌一起站在五里橋上/感受詩歌的長度/感受歷史的滄桑/感受經過日月磨洗的石頭/具有怎樣襲人的力量」。

在古城的衙署門前,終於遇到了只通過電話,卻一直未曾謀面的祁人,之後才知道他還是個詩歌朗誦高手。晚宴設在古城一家餐館,餐後在中庭舉行詩歌朗誦會,吸引了許多附近的居民前來觀賞,因而會場顯得有些吵雜,但是詩歌能與一般老百姓如此接近,也是件美好的事。

八月九日上午,行程安排參觀塔爾寺及藏醫藥博物館。到達塔爾寺時卻下起了雨,加上當日遊客異於尋常的多,我們在如意八塔前由導遊帶領參觀了大經堂、時輪學院、大金瓦寺、酥油花館等,由於雨濕及人潮,使得整個參觀過程顯得擠亂不堪,只能走馬看花,我心裡打定主意等活動結束,一定要再來好好的重新參觀。我望向山門外正好有家住宿賓館,記住了名字心裡便踏實了許多,沒想到同行的婉雲姐上了車,有點喘的塞給我一張名片,我一看正是那家賓館的名字,哇!簡直是靈犀相通。(後來我留在青海的三天,竟全在塔爾寺內外“慢遊”,且有許多美好的緣遇,這是後話。)由於在塔爾寺拖延了太多時間,藏醫藥博物館的參訪只好取消了。

下午除了部分的詩人去參加青海師範大學的朗誦會外,其餘的人可自由活動。我因手腕疼痛,正好得空到附近的第二青海醫院就醫,也是一次難得的體驗。晚上除了賓館前的小廣場有朗誦會外,還有青海作家協會辦的朗誦會,我分配到後者,地點在西寧市區的一家咖啡館舉行,空間氣氛還算優雅,我和張詩劍等香港來的詩友坐一起,另外還有外國及大陸的詩人,由詩人兼翻譯家高興主持,在美好的氛圍中,詩擺脫了語言的隔閡,藉著聲音表情,互相撞擊出美麗的光與熱。青海詩人馬非大概開心多喝了兩杯,情緒顯得有點highe,但當他在朗誦自己的作品時,那神情卻又如此慎重莊嚴。在詩歌之前,詩人是清醒的。

八月十日,七輛巴士車一早便啟程前往坎布拉,參觀丹霞地貌,這已是活動的最後一天。車子出了市區,只見一畦畦金色的麥田,間綴著深綠樹木,遠處青蒼的祁連山環繞,天很藍,佈著白亮薄雲。車內詩人朋友們則開心的引吭高歌,同車有當地土族人為我們唱有名的歌謠「花兒」,而來自蒙古的仁‧斯琴朝克圖一曲「蒙古人」,更是令人叫好,鄭愁予夫婦也忍不住唱了年輕時的懷念老歌……因為歌聲,因為窗外的美景,使得將近三個小時的車程飛快流逝。沿途常可見到屋外圍以方形土牆的民宅及頭戴白色小圓帽的回族人;當車子行過一座橋時,橋下是清澈如鏡的河水,上下倒影優美如畫,小桃說那是黃河,我驚訝極了,一直以來總認為夾帶泥沙滾滾的黃河,從不曾清過,不是有句話:「跳到黃河洗不清嗎?」沒想到黃河竟也有如此清新、澄澈的風貌,我才恍然想起青海有「江之源」之稱,它是黃河、長江、瀾滄江的源頭。這簡直是一大驚奇,沒想到更多的驚奇還在後頭。在中途站換了小型車繼續往上爬行,此時沿途的景觀開始伴隨著此起彼落的驚嘆聲。霞紅的群山,清碧的湖水,幾抹雲橫臥在山腰,空中微微飄濛著雨霧,有人忍不住叫著:「我們彷彿闖進了西王母的瑤池」,真是人間天上呀!

到了遊客休息中心,又改搭遊園車前往山頂,遊園車只以鏈條將兩旁圍住,冷風就這樣直喇喇的迎面撲來,凍得大夥兒猛打哆嗦,我把能披的衣物全裹上了。幸好美景轉移了不少的注意力,在寒風中欣賞高聳的丹霞地質奇峰,另有一番況味。下車處,有一條步道蜿蜒向另一座山峰的亭子,據說在彼處可俯瞰全景。我穿著長裙披著長外衣,把圍巾垂覆在頭頂擋太陽(那模樣大概有點像印度女人吧!)漫步在小徑上,看著陽光從樹葉間篩落,兩旁野花盛開,心情是閒逸的,我不想為了趕目標,而錯失眼前這情境這風光,走到哪兒就算哪兒吧!我欣喜無比,也恬靜無比。時間打造出雄偉、壯麗的丹霞奇峰,時間也把中年心境磨洗得平靜、清澈。

自坎布拉回到西寧已黃昏,晚餐後安排前往青海電視台,觀賞音樂詩歌演唱會。在錄影棚裡,表演者以聲音表情,以音樂,以舞蹈,以舞台的光與影,只見詩歌撲動著絢爛的彩羽,遨翔在視覺之內,在想像之中,在詩歌節的最後一晚,畫下了美好的句點,有如夜空光亮的星子,恆在往後的記憶裡閃爍著——

附記:另感謝於此次國際詩歌節中,不管舊雨或新知,有緣交會的詩人朋友們(李秀珊、郝達、金肽頻、黃禮孩、莊偉杰、韓麗麗、花雨、食指、藍海文、蔡麗雙、春華、吳曉萍、周占林、姬少亭、雨田、秦巴子、班果、楊遠宏、席瑋、李自國、丁海東、溫遠輝、李開玉、美國詩人梅丹理、石江山、摩洛哥詩人賈拉爾等),豐富了我此趟的詩路之旅。

作者: 琹川   時間:2011-02-11 11:33:41  來源:110.24.72.71

〔秋水討論板 V2.0〕〔PHP+CodeIgniter版本作者:小p〕〔〕〔網站〕〔原作者:Yuzi工作室
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